BE CAREFUL WHEN UNBOXING! The little set screws for adjusting the bridge position were loose in the package, and as I slid the bridge out, one of them fell out and scurried under the workbench where it took me twenty minutes to find it. Wish they had threaded them into the bridge or put them in the plastic bag with the Allen wrenches. I haven't used the bridge yet, but it seems very well made like all Gotoh stuff. I know this is minor gripe, just wanted to give a heads up.

Very Good , Lots of Sustain Compare to the Aluminium Bridge that came with the Guitar

I replaced the one that came on my Epiphone LP Jr. This one gave me lower action than was possible with the other style bridge. It fit directly onto the stock stud holes, so I just screwed in the new studs. Done in 15 min. This one goes to 11!

If you own any guitar [PRS, Gibson LP JR, Epiphone, etc.] which have a wrap around bridge and are sick and tired of losing a good intonation span due to their limited and really not so great design... then do what I did, buy from Amplified Parts a Gotoh Combination Bridge/Tailpiece, quality made in Japan. I purchased the Gotoh Chrome 510UB [Sku# P-GGT-35-C] - they come in other colors. There is no comparison, no better value for the price point to this excellent bridge you will get both in string tuning stability plus tone.. this is a small investment with a ton of results... however, remember, if you have an expensive guitar and make modifications like this, it could reduce the value of your instrument as collectors and resellers do take into consideration the factory delivery of any instrument.. so, save the old parts if you can to retain the possible value... Installation of the Gotoh 510UB takes some skill to adjust it so I've included some instructions to help.. get one, get many from Amplified Parts.. and good luck!
The Gotoh 510UB bridge/tailpiece has 4 adjustable areas:
1. Bridge height to get the optimum string/fretboard clearance. Done with post screws up or down to ensure your desired string action and height [careful of buzz!]. This will take a few adjustments,, you'll get there! Don't forget to ensure the bridge ground wire is inserted into one post to avoid ground issues. There are holes on both of the posts included.
2. Final lockdown using smallest Allen key [comes with kit] once height setting is found. Carefully insert the smaller Allen key into height post and lock down.. do not over torque.
3. Forward and backward movement of the left and right of the bridge posts for general intonation using the larger Allen key.
4. Forward and backward movement of individual saddles for precision intonation [sharp/flat] using a Philips head screwdriver and adjust all the 6 individual saddles if needed. Using a tuner [I like the Snark Headstock ones... as long as it's a good digital, 440 tuner, all good!] and tune the guitar to standard 440 EADGBE tuning. Starting with the fat "E" string, check each open string against the fretted note at the 12th fret and the harmonic at the 12 fret. If a string is sharp or flat, move each saddle according to get the best intonation possible. Generally, flat means reduce the distance of the string and sharp means lengthen it.. adjusting the saddle travel forward or backwards until you are as close to the string tone you are tuning.. e.g. tuning E - 12th fret is sharp... moving saddle away from the bridge [trial and error is the master for intonation I think...]