Amp Kit - Mod® Electronics, MOD102+ guitar amp

Mod Electronics
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Customer image:<br/>"Made a combo with an old radio with it , I love it . Great sounding amp thanks guys!"
Customer image:<br/>"My version of the Mod 102+ Tweed"
Customer image:<br/>"Love these kits!"
Customer image:<br/>"Walnut and Mahogany enclosure for Mod102+ head"
Customer image:<br/>"MOD102 Upgraded to MOD102+ with Optional 6V6/EL84 and Optional NFB Loop"
Customer image:<br/>"Mod 102+"
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Customer Images:
Customer image: "Made a combo with an old radio with it , I love it . Great sounding amp thanks guys!"Customer image: "My version of the Mod 102+ Tweed"Customer image: "Love these kits!"Customer image: "Walnut and Mahogany enclosure for Mod102+ head"Customer image: "MOD102 Upgraded to MOD102+ with Optional 6V6/EL84 and Optional NFB Loop"Customer image: "Mod 102+"

Amp Kit - Mod® Electronics, MOD102+ guitar amp

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The Mod® Electronics MOD102+ expands on the same all analog vacuum tube classic American circuit design combined with a British style Class A output section as the Original MOD102 with additional “+” features. These special features include a three position progressive toggle switch for off-standby-power and additional push-pull functionality for each control - pull out the bass control knob for “mid boost”, pull out the treble control knob for “bright”, pull out the volume control knob for “turbo”. These new features and a JJ ECC803-S (a long plate 12AX7 known for its complex mid range tones) allow for a wider variety of tones and extra control for the user.

MOD 102+ Guitar Amp Kit Features:

  • All-Tube Design (solid-state diodes used only for full-wave rectification)
  • 8W output power into 8 Ω
  • 1 channel
  • Vintage channel controls with push-pull functionality: bass (+mid-boost), treble (+bright) and volume (+turbo)
  • Vintage pilot lamp and screw-on jewel cover for power-on indication
  • Output Impedance: 8 Ω
  • Tubes included: one ECC803 (JJ Electronic brand preamp tube), one EL84 (JJ Electronic brand power tube)
  • Hammond Mfg 269EX power transformer and P-T31 single ended output transformer.
  • Cathode biased class A power tube operation (no bias adjustment needed).
  • Point to point hand wiring using terminal strips
  • Carbon film resistors
  • Metalized polyester coupling caps
  • Pre-punched steel chassis
  • Assembled Kit Weight: 5.55 lbs.
  • Assembled Kit Dimensions: 10" Width x 6" Depth x 5 ⅛" Height
Build Difficulty
Item ID:
Mod ElectronicsAnimus Series
Item Height5.125 in.
Item Length10 in.
Item Width6 in.
Output Impedance (Zout)8 Ω
Output Power (POut)8 W
Packaging Information
Packaging Dimensions13 in. × 11 in. × 9 in.
Weight (Packaging)7.1606 lbs.
PDF: InstructionsAll Models
PDF: Assembly DrawingsAll Models
PDF: Filter Cap Drain ModAll Models
PDF: Parts List DrawingsAll Models
PDF: SchematicAll Models
PDF: Troubleshooting SupplementAll Models
MPEG: Sound SampleAll Models

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Specifications, Files, and Documents

Sound Samples:

PDF: Assembly Drawings Assembly Drawings262.73 KB
PDF: Filter Cap Drain Mod Filter Cap Drain Mod260.09 KB
PDF: Instructions Instructions1.77 MB
PDF: Parts List Drawings Parts List Drawings264.98 KB
PDF: Schematic Schematic232.51 KB
PDF: Troubleshooting Supplement Troubleshooting Supplement386.86 KB
Questions? Contact us at [email protected], or give us a call at 480-296-0890

Product Reviews

5.00 out of 5 based on 9 reviews
Sean T - August 17th, 2023
5 out of 5

I really enjoyed putting this kit together. It wasn't easy, and it required some troubleshooting to fix mistakes on my part, but it was worth it. I did end up adding a Hammond chassis cage, because I didn't like having the tubes and transformers exposed around my pets and baby.

moorej - August 7th, 2023
5 out of 5

I really enjoyed building this kit. I've built many projects on printed circuit boards but this was my first point to point build. Good instructions with illustrations, schematic and trouble shooting sheet. I had some issues with too much hum so looked closely at all my solder joints and found two possible cold joints. After resoldering it quieted down and all the voltages at the test points were then spot on. This is a great sounding little amp. Makes my melody maker sing and my 335 as well. With the 102+ you can use the push-pull pots to dial in a wide variety of nuanced sounds. I'm using it with two 8" speakers but want to build a single 12" cabinet eventually. great for practicing but could be used in small venues as well. Plenty loud for such a small amp.

MInglis1967 - May 14th, 2023
5 out of 5

I just finished my build day before yesterday. I initially bought the MOD102 but then decided to buy the extra components for the MOD102+ since I was modding the build anyways and I wanted to get some more functionality out of it. Ive gotta say im glad i decided to build the MOD102+ instead. Sometimes designers add mods just for the sake of being able to say a product has more features but this is certainly not the case here. The "bright" settings frequency is dialed in perfectly and i find it very useful. It add a load of versatility in my opinion. I also seriously considered doing away with the mid resistor (6.8k) so i could just use a 25k mids potentiometer instead but with the other mods I had planned space was tight. Luckily i can say that the mid boost mod helps me cover just enough ground so that i dont feel like ill miss the versatility of an actual mids pot. Now for a couple of the mods i did unique to my build (i posted two pics of the amp so if they've been approved you should be able to see them on here). The first mod I did was to add an extra octal (8 pin) socket to the chassis so that i could also use this amp with a 6v6. I could have just left it at that and only plugged in the 6V6 or EL84 one at a time but I wanted to not have to switch them out constantly and i wanted each tube to be biased ideally rather than having to find a less than ideal compromise between the two so i put each tube on a cathode lift switch to select one tube or the other. So the 6V6 and EL84 are wired in parallel on all pins except the cathodes which run to a SPDT that connects only one cathode to ground at a time. I also had to find a good value for the cathode bias resistor and bypass cap for the 6V6 as the EL84 values wouldnt have worked properly. I ended up settling on a 470R 5W for the 6V6 bias resistor and a 25uf for the bypass capacitor. So far im very happy with those values. For the second mod (theres more but these two were the biggest) I changed up the cathode ground path a bit on V1 pin 8 so that i could add back in the negative feedback loop and put it on a switch as well. I modeled the NFB loop off of the "Champ Amp AA7 64" schematic and to bypass the loop i just bypass the 47 ohm resistor on the cathode of V1 pin 8 thats after V1 b's cathode resistor and capacitor (the 47 ohm isnt part of the MOD102+ schematic, it was part of the Champ Amp 64 schematic that was nessesary in order to add back the NFB loop). I even used the same resistor value for the NFB loop as the Champ Amp 64 which is a 2.7k (less resistance equals more NFB, more resistance equals less NFB). I think it might be cool to add a small toggle switch to the back of the amp and put the 2.7k NFB resistor and a 22k resistor on it so i can select NFB "High" or "Low" on the back of the amp. So from the front of the amp when you select NFB "ON" its either a lot or a little of NFB depending on where that toggle switch on the back is set. I still need to make my decals for the amp but im out of printer ink right now but ill get around to it eventually. As for the sound difference between the EL84 and 6V6 im really pleased with both of them and the differences are quite dramatic. The 6V6 is just like youd expect with more lows and highs and less mids. Its cleaner and fuller sounding but overall is quieter than the EL84 because 6V6's need more input signal to equal the same output as the EL84 but the 6V6 is still more than loud enough. If you wanted to do this mod and the volume mismatch bothered you there are a few ways you could compensate (attenuate the EL84 with a voltage divider/add masters for each tube, or boost the input but only on the 6V6 etc). The EL84 on the other hand has more mids, is louder and quicker to brake up. Both sound wonderful in their own way and i love having the option to use either. With all the good though there was bound to be some bad. Nothing big though. For example the push/pull volume pot is literally the worst push/pull volume pot ive ever experienced lol. The taper is completely shoved up at the upper end way more than most audio/logarithmic pots are (and there is zero volume at all until about a quarter of the way up on the volume which makes sense considering the wacky taper it has). And it has a lot of slop to it when turning or pushing/pulling it. It also feels completely stiff when turning lol. Its just all around a crappy pot which i really didnt expect when i bought it since it looks like it would be a great switch. I thought maybe i got a dud but apparently thats just how these specific push pull pots are. So i would highly recommend just using a regular A1M pot and using a toggle for the "turbo" function or sourcing a different pot which will be tricky but not impossible. For example ill be replacing mine with a Bourns A1M Push/Pull 3/8 shaft diameter that will work great with the only downside being i cant find it in a solid shaft variant so ill just cut some wood to go in between the slot on the shaft and use a regular set screw knob or pick up some brass splined to solid shaft adaptors. The other con I would say would be the way the off/standby/on switch is wired (or the way the on/off switch is wired if your building the MOD102). The reason its a con is because they designed it to switch the neutral wire rather than the hot wire. I reached out to Amplified Parts (who have been incredible through this whole build when i had questions btw) and asked them why they didnt design the amp the safer way which is to switch the hot wire. They told me it was because in such a small enclosure running the neutral wire was a trick amp builders used to use to avoid excess noise from having current so close to signal wires. And they are absolutely correct that theoretically this would be less prone to noise. But I still think you could get away with switching the hot wire if you do your layout very carefully (Amplifed Parts said just that in their response to me as well, so its up to you if you want to switch neutral and have it be less safe or switch hot and have to be extra careful with your layout to avoid possible noise/hum). Some Fender champs even switched both simultaneously so thats also an option. For now i wired mine to switch the neutral cause with all my mods noise was already a concern but the amp actually turned out to be dead quite when your on low to medium volume and the noise you get when your really cranking the amp isnt unbearable largely in part to the addtion of the artifical center tap mod that the MOD102+ incorporates (so if youre building the MOD102 at the very least pick up two more 100R resistors and do that mod cause its very effective at keeping the noise down). The last thing ill say is this. Earlier I ran my MOD102+ alongside my Marshall DSL100HR in a wet/dry type stereo setup and it was by far the best tone and most enjoyable playing experience ive had on an electric guitar. But i didnt build this amp because i needed a great amp. Ive been building pedals and guitars and restoring vintage tube radios/recieivers for a long time and this project has been my favorite out of all my builds (and there a quite a lot many of which im very fond of and use everytime i plug in my guitars). I wanted to build this amp because I wanted to expand my knowledge of tube circuits and this kit certainly did that for me. BUT, you could easily buy this kit and follow amplified parts/mod kits instructions and walk away not having learned much at all cause they really walk you through it all to the point that you really only need the proper tools and the ability to solder. So if you are building this amp to learn you should be aware that just following the instructions isnt likely to teach you in a meaningful way. I highly recommend if youre doing this kit to look up the Fender Champ schematics and really pick them apart. That is how youll actually learn something while doing this kit. A good way to walk away from this project having learned a lot is to modify the schematic. Not by blindly following someone's advice online but by thinking of a mod youd like to see in this amp and then going online and researching and asking questions etc. For the 6V6/EL84 switch mod i had to do just that. I found very little online about doing that mod and most of my info came from looking up similar schematics and staring at them for hours and looking up all the questions i had until i understood them. Having done that i absolutely feel like im walking away from this build significantly more knowledgeable on tube amps than i was when i started. If thats your goal then this kit is a great stepping off point. But there is also NOTHING wrong with wanting to just follow the instructions and end up with a great little amp. If thats your goal that by all means go for it! To each is own. I really enjoyed this experience and im certain it wont be my last amp build. In fact likely the first of many.

Larry Wood - March 21st, 2023
5 out of 5

Completed the functional build a while back, and finally built it into a nice wooden cabinet (see uploaded picture). I've run it through several different cabinets ranging from a 1x12 open back to a 4x12 closed back. Sounds great through all of them. Plenty of volume, based on its power rating. Wish it had an effects loop post preamp, but it makes a great power stage for my pedal board (which includes Mod Kit Persuader and Saturator)

Rick Braun - February 26th, 2023
5 out of 5

Completed mine about 6 months ago. I love it. Not an easy build, had to do lots of troubleshooting to find my errors, but it was worth it. And a fun build. Into a 10" Weber it sounds fabulous with my ES-175. Clean as can be up to a reasonable volume then great predictable breakup. Crank it wide open, it keeps on tickin'. High quality components, simple circuit. Good use of $275. See ya!

Austin B - December 15th, 2022
5 out of 5

10/10, would build again.

The instructions were very well written, and the diagrams were super helpful -- I don't think they could be any easier to follow.

Sounds great, and the EQ is very expressive. The "bright" switch is super useful when playing w/ humbuckers to clear up some of the mud. Very well matched for my tele, but also surprisingly capable of handling lower frequencies -- I plugged in my 7-string tuned to drop F# just for funzies, and it handled it really well haha

Even tho this is only 8W, it still gets plenty loud, even thru my 1x12 cab. I've ordered a 15W L-pad to install at the output jack so I can crank the gain without disturbing my wife on the other side of the house :)

Great job Mod

maxwellh - October 27th, 2021
5 out of 5

Fun build, great instructions included. Get the instructions online for color photos.

Ronnie E - June 27th, 2019
5 out of 5

This is a great kit. I wanted to build a small amp so i started researching schematics online.
Then i found this kit. All the leg work has been done as well as step by step instructions.
I just started it so i can’t comment on tone,
but the ease and design of the kit is excellent.
Full parts list, schematic and instructions include.
It gives you a proven simple platform to start with and you can add your own modifications if you wish. Thanks MOD

danjbeckett - April 18th, 2019
5 out of 5

I just finished this amp build and it sounds fantastic! I also just finished a Marshall 18 Watt clone and I have to say that the MOD102+ holds its own very nicely alongside the Marshall. In fact, I will probably use the MOD102+ for recording because it sounds amazing at lower volumes (the Marshall is loud AF). Honestly, if I were only going to build one of them today, it would be the MOD. I'm blown away by the tone! Great kit with excellent instructions. Great bang for the buck. The parts all seem to be top quality. I love the old style cloth solid core wire, too. I find it much easier to work with than modern stranded wire. The labels are a bit lame but I covered them with packing tape as suggested before cutting them out and they look fine. If you're thinking about building an amp, build this one.